Northern Territory

300 clicks of corrugations later, we took the turn off to 7 Emu Station. As we neared the homestead we gained on an old Land Cruiser that was averaging 40kms per hour, it obviously belonged to one of the station hands so you would expect them to successfully cross the river directly before their own homestead. However, we discovered that this was not the case. After snatching our indigenous friend out of the river, we finally found ourselves at the homestead/ reception area where we were given some very vague directions to the camp. The camp site was amazing - it was on a steep cliff which overlooked the pristine Robinson River Valley, we even had a loo with a view.

Finally made it to the border........

cute camp dog at 7 Emu - reminded me of Tess

we love long drop toilets....



After a few days we noticed that supplies were dwindling so we decided to take a day trip to Boorooloola which is an infamous NT Aboriginal Community. We originally had planned to spend a night here after we departed 7 Emu Station,but very quickly changed our minds. We did our grocery shop at one of the local stores and stocked up on the basics (poxy vegetables, overpriced meat and long life milk) and visited the local art gallery. As takeaway alcohol sales weren't available until 2.30pm we decided to drive the 50kms to a seaside town called King Ash Bay and enjoy a nice lunch by the water. When we arrived in King Ash Bay we were greeted at the Fishing Club by an unwelcoming old bag who informed us that we couldn't get lunch NT style (Not Today, Not Tomorrow, Not Tuesday or Not Thursday). So we filled up with petrol and made our way back to Boorooloola for some surprisingly good takeaway grub. It was now 2.30pm so we made our way to the supermarket to buy ourselves a carton of beer. $65, a breathalyser test and an ID check later we had ourselves a carton of Carlton Midstrenghts - what an ordeal!!!! We do not plan to visit Boorooloola ever again.

We really enjoyed the rest of our time at 7 Emu Station even though we didn't land a decent fish the whole time. Frank (who is the indigenous Station owner) took us on a tour of the property and taught us a lot about his family history, bush tucker and bush medicine. He also told tales about kidneys and ball sacks being ruptured, his father swimming across flooded croc infested rivers and he even pointed out a few of the trees under which his mother had given birth to his 9 siblings.

Sadly we had to leave 7 Emu Station, but we knew that another adventure was just around the corner. We thought that we would treat ourselves to a night in a cabin with some internet access and electricity, so we made our way to Cape Crawford for a night before we arrived at our next 'bush camping' destination. We checked into the 'Heart Break Hotel' which is the only thing in Cape Crawford. It was a lovely little park and we were able to do a few loads of washing, eat a pub meal, play a game of darts, stock up on booze (still overpriced, but no breathalyser was involved) and talk to lots of other travellers about road conditions etc.

The next morning we packed up early and drove to Lorealla Springs where we met our friends Carmen and Kev. We had a quick dip in one of the hot springs (it took away all of our aches and pains) and made our way to Rosie Creek Fishing Camp. The campsite is located 80kms down a dirt 4WD track, and we only got stuck once. We were in awe when we finally arrived (3 hours later) as we were once again able to set up camp directly in front of another beautiful creek. The fishing was pretty awesome, it's not too often you throw back a 39cm Mangrove Jack because your esky is all ready full!!!! We also caught some decent Cod, Trevally (Giant and Golden), QLD Grouper, Queenie, a Sickle Fish and a stinking Baracuda. As we sat around our camp fire of a night we could hear the crocodiles splashing around and would even catcht a glimpse of those creepy red eyes.

carsales.com.au????

Waz and his cuda

Belle and the cod that is bigger than the one Waz got (fishing isn't a competition)

Waz and Jack

 Belle and Jack

After a few days of fishing and relaxing we made our way back to Lorella Springs with a quick stop at 'Nudie Springs', which remains heated at 38 degrees. Luckily we were the only people there so we did not see any 'nudie grey nomads' - what a relief. We stayed overnight at Lorella Springs to soak in the hot springs and wash away all of that dust before heading to Limmen Bight Fishing Camp.

 Springs at Lorella that soothed our aches and pains...

We had heard mixed reports on Limmen Bight from other travellers and weren't sure what to expect. John Hall (who we bought our boat from) raved about the place, but others had complained about the stinky toilets and lack of facilities. We were greeted with a detour sign (spelt detor) at the gates to the camp which was a bit confusing as there was no detour. Through the gate and past the rusted out vehicles we found ourselves at the homestead/reception where we were greeted by the owner and his son, they were pretty rough country Territorians, but both had hearts of gold (as long as you never crossed them).

During our Limmen Bight experience we weren't overly energetic, and enjoyed sleep ins and afternoon fishing sessions for a couple of days. We caught plenty of barras but they were all undersized, we also got a few Jacks and Groupers. We spent some time with Steve the owner and his sons who told us lots of stories about the camp, people who had stayed there and a heap of local information. He had lived in the area for 46 years and had married a local indigenous girl. When Waz noted his interest in a mining proposal in the area he then showed us some awesome maps of the indigenous history of the area which was a real privilege. Although we had no cash on us we bought a book from him on the basis that we leave the money for him at the 5 Star supermarket in Katherine. If we could function on this level of trust on a day to day basis the world would be a much better place.

Rampy the crocodile (a croc as big as our boat who hangs out near the boat ramp)

a shark ate Waza's barra

Another pack up and we were on the corrugated road again - we weren't really sure where to though. We thought about staying at Roper Bar but when we saw the hoards of grey nomads we decided to keep going to Mataranka which is famous for it's natural hot springs. After 3 weeks of bull dust, long drop toilets or shovels, dribbly showers and no phone or internet access we were very happy to arrive at campground with all of the modern amenities. Belle enjoyed an hour long shower and we both enjoyed catching up with family and friends on the phone. We also realized that we had got our first flat tyre of the trip, which is a pretty good effort after 11,000kms of corrugated, dirt, sand and rocky tracks. Waz was able to change the tyre with on a grassy patch with a cold beer in hand - it was awesome.
One of our favourite pass times is to watch other campers set up their tents, and giggle while they fight and swear at each other - we would never do anything like that........ All of the grey nomads even cleared out this morning - we are in heaven. We have even been able to enjoy a restaurant cooked meal which was a real treat. Tomorrow we are going to pack up again and head to Katherine and Daly Waters which should be lots of fun. Then off to Darwin to catch up with Lorimyers and Rob......

Quick dip at Bitter Springs

Barra feeding at the campground

Why can't we catch a barra this big??????